Different Types of Dog Collars

Collars are worn by dogs for training, walking, identification or even fashion. Use the following descriptions to find the right collar for your dog, then check out some leash varieties.

Chain Slip Collars


Often called choke chains, these collars are intended for training purposes only. When training a dog to walk on a leash and heel, corrections are made with a quick tug on the leash, causing it to close somewhat on the dog’s neck. Over time, many dog trainers have moved away from the choke chain method. Generally, these collars are not recommended because they could damage your dog's neck. If you do choose to get a choke chain for your dog, learn how to use it properly. Chain slip collars should be used with caution and never be left on your dog when unattended, as they pose a strangulation hazard.


Metal Prong Collars

Despite their harsh appearance, many trainers find these collars effective for strong, stubborn dogs with a tendency to pull on the leash. Also known as pinch collars, they are used for correction during training, similar to chain slip collars. Also like the chain slip collars, metal prong collars should be used with caution and never be left on your dog when unattended.

Martingale Collars

Also know as limited slip collars or Greyhound collars, Martingale collars are used to prevent dogs from slipping out of collars while walking on a leash. Though the collars tighten with a tug of the leash, there is a stopping mechanism to prevent complete closure on the neck. Often made out of nylon or similar material, Martingale collars are available in a variety of colors and designs. These collars are especially suited for sighthounds, but can be uses on most dog breeds.

Everyday Collars

You can express your personal style with a variety of dog collars for everyday use. Collars with metal buckles or quick release clasps are available in a variety of materials, colors and styles. Many pet owners prefer buckle collars for stronger dogs, as quick release clasps tend to be less sturdy. Rolled leather collars are durable and less likely to cause hair loss or parting. Always be sure your dog's collar has a name tag with your current contact information.

Break-Away Collars

These collars are also for everyday use, but have a special safety feature to prevent choking. However, they can still be used for walking on a leash. The collar will break away if the loop becomes caught on something and your dog pulls away. When a leash is hooked onto both loops, you can walk your dog without the risk of the collar breaking away. Always be sure your dog’s collar has a name tag with your current contact information.

Head Collars

Head collars or halters slightly resemble muzzles, but they have a very different purpose. These halters act more like harnesses for the head and are intended to help train a dog to walk on a leash and heel. When a dog pulls on the leash, the halter will cause the head to turn. This feels unnatural and will deter the behavior. When used properly, head collars can successfully discourage pulling and support other training. Head halters should not be left on unattended dog or dogs on a very long lead, as they may be able to back out of some types of head collars. 

Harnesses

Harnesses are designed for placement around a dog’s chest and abdomen, crossing over the back. A leash can be attached to the top of the harness. Some dog owners prefer harnesses over collars, especially for dogs with a tendency to pull, because they put no pressure on the neck. Some trainers feel that harnesses only encourage pulling and that leash-and-collar training should be enforced. Harnesses are ideal for dogs with medical problems in the neck and airway.

Dog Show Collars

Show Collars are slip collars typically made out of a braided material such as leather, nylon or metal. These collars should not be confused with chain slip collars.

Martingale Leads are all-in-one collars and leads. They operate in a similar way as the Martingale collars. Commonly used for toy breeds in the show ring, the collar portion slips over the head and tightens when the lead is pulled. A plastic tube slides down the lead to keep the collar in place.

Chain vs. Prong collar?

When it comes to either collar, the main concern is proper usage. 


--Chain "Choke" collars are just that; the reaction of using a chain collar is essentially a --quick-- choke used during a verbal command. 

*Size matters. When selecting a gauge size for a choke, always pick a suitable width. For a larger dog (40lbs+), gauges of 3mm+ should be used. By using too small of a gauge, you --can-- erect a possibility of severing into the dog's trachea when utilizing the choke. Also, you'll want at the most, 2" of slack in the length of the chain. Anything less or more defeats the effectiveness of a chain collar. 

*Placement. For proper control usage, the collar should rest directly below the base of a dog's jawline, at the start of his neck when being "used"; It should never rest lower.

*Chain collars can cause severe trauma to a dog's trachea, especially when not used properly. 

Choke chains should **only** be kept around his neck when you are doing training with your dog; It should ***never** remain on unsupervised. Chances of one of the loops getting caught on anything is great; causing the increased likelihood of your dog choking to death. 



-Pinch collars are designed exactly to "pinch" the skin around a dog's neck as a training technique. (Be aware that the pinch for some dogs, can be painful. But, in general its reaction is of a slight sharp pinch, like one we'd give one another with our fingertips.)These collars are especially useful for larger, stronger dogs that chokes, harnesses and nylon collars cannot control. The prongs on a pinch collar are dull, flat edged and face at an angle to prevent any possibility of puncturing into the neck. Basically, when pulled taut, the prongs angle to pinch the skin around a dog's neck. 

*Size matters. Just as chain collars, pinch collars should have 2" of slack. 

*Placement is also just as the chain collar; sitting below the jawline, at the top of the neck. 

***Pinch collars should never be left on the dog when not in training use, too. 


Between both collars, I would be more apt to use the pinch collar. It causes the **least** amount of trauma and produces a more effective action; thus rendering a faster, better response from your dog. Especially when dealing with a "headstrong" dog, a pinch collar will give you the results that choke's just can't. IMO, it is a **much** safer product then the chain choke. 

Many "judge a book by the cover" because of the prongs, but don't let it fool you. When I first was introduced to them, I myself was very put off by them; I considered the prongs so inhumane. As time went on, I learned what they provided and how much better they provided it; especially opposed to chain choke collars.


Its imperative with whatever choice you take, that you remember the importance of verbal commands when using these products. Choke and Pinch collars are secondary to verbal commands. 


If neither option fits your choice, consider the Nylon Choke collars (as one person's mentioned) or a head harness. Nylon Choke Collars work on the same premise but use are considered more humane then the chains. Head Harnesses like "Halti's" or "Gentle Leaders" work fabulously, too. They work on the same basic premise as reigns of a horse. You control a dog's (usually a walking trainer) behavior by pulling his head against the direction he was already going. While I like to recommend them, I don't with dogs that are highly dominant or those that are training for other purposes beyond walking.

Download PDF on Prong Collars

http://cobankopegi.com/prong.html